In the heart of Lagos lies a vibrant neighborhood known as Popo Aguda, or the Brazilian Quarters, where history and celebration intertwine. For centuries, this area has come alive during two of the busiest times of the year: Easter and Christmas. During Easter, the atmosphere is charged with a sense of togetherness, as families gather to share a traditional meal of Frejon, a rich and flavorful dish that has been passed down through generations of Afro-Brazilians in Lagos. This meal isn’t just food—it’s a living testament to the cultural ties that have bound communities together for over a hundred years.

But what truly ignites the streets of Popo Aguda on Easter Sunday is the Fanti Carnival. Unlike the state-run Lagos Carnival, Fanti is a grassroots celebration that is deeply embedded in the local culture. For over a century, this carnival has been a dazzling spectacle, with colorful troupes parading through the streets in elaborate costumes. It’s a sight to behold, one that draws in not only the locals but also visitors from all walks of life. The carnival includes homage to the Grand Popo at the Popo’s Pavilion, where troupes halt for a bit and entertain the Grand Popo, a tradition that connects the people of Popo Aguda to their heritage, while also offering a joyous experience to anyone lucky enough to witness it.

In recent years, the carnival has only grown in popularity, with more and more people joining the troupes or crowding the Popo’s Pavilion area, eager to watch the dancers, drummers, and performers fill the streets with life. The rhythm of the music, the artistry of the costumes, and the spirit of the dancers create an unforgettable atmosphere, one that brings together the old and the new, the traditional and the modern. It’s a living celebration of culture, history, and community—a reminder that in Popo Aguda, tradition is not just remembered but celebrated with every step.

By November, the vibrant Afro-Brazilian community of Lagos is preparing for a month of cultural celebration, one that honors their rich heritage with a blend of solemnity and joy. Throughout the month, a series of events unfolds, beginning with thought-provoking lectures, followed by a sense of reverence as families gather for Friday prayers at the mosque and a Catholic mass at the Cathedral of the Holy Cross. These observances provide a moment to reflect on the community’s deep roots, but the heart of the celebration beats louder with the arrival of the Campos Caretta Carnival troupe. Dressed in their colorful finery, they lead a procession through the streets of the Brazilian Quarters, accompanied by families and neighbors, walking in unity and pride.

However, the true highlight of the season is the Carnival on Christmas Day. By the time the afternoon sun reaches its peak, different Fanti Carnival troupes—Campos Caretta, Lafiaji, Okepopo, Oko Faji, Epetedo, and Olowogbowo—gather on Broad Street, their energy palpable. It’s a scene that’s both exhilarating and mesmerizing, as each troupe lines up, eagerly awaiting the signal to begin the procession. The streets soon come alive with a burst of color, music, and dance. The elaborate costumes shimmer under the sun, and the rhythms of drums and chants pulse through the air, drawing both spectators and participants into the heart of the celebration.

As the procession kicks off, it’s not just a parade; it’s a living tribute to the enduring spirit of Afro-Brazilian culture in Lagos. Families and performers, young and old, move together through the streets of Popo Aguda, celebrating the ties that bind them to a past rich in tradition, while also embracing the present with joy and pride. For those who have witnessed this annual spectacle, it’s more than just an event—it’s a reminder that culture, community, and history are always alive, always moving, and always celebrated.

As the carnival procession begins, the Oko Faji group takes the lead, their vibrant red, blue, and white costumes catching the eye as they march with purpose. Behind them, the streets of Popo Aguda fill with a kaleidoscope of color and movement, each troupe adding its own flair to the procession. The well-known Campos Caretta troupe follows, their striking green and yellow costumes impossible to miss, a symbol of their longstanding presence and pride in the celebration.

Next, the Lafiaji troupe steps out with grace, their red and white attire giving them an air of elegance as they move through the crowd. Not far behind, the Okepopo troupe adds a refreshing burst of green and white, their costumes a unique contrast that stands out in the sea of colors. The Epetedo troupe, with their blue and white garb, sweep through the streets like a wave, their synchronized movements as fluid as the colors they wear.

And then, there is the Olowogbowo troupe. Dressed in costumes of brilliant yellow and silver, they shine like the sun itself, a radiant presence that lights up the procession. Each troupe, in its own way, adds to the rich tapestry of the Fanti Carnival, a celebration not just of culture but of the creativity, history, and joy that bind this community together. Together, they move through the streets, a living painting of tradition and pride, reminding everyone that the Fanti carnival is more than just a parade—it’s a vivid expression of identity.

At the heart of the carnival procession, each group crowns a king and queen, draped in the most elaborate, eye-catching costumes. These regal figures take center stage, bringing a sense of grandeur to the parade as they lead their troupe through the streets, with the rest of the performers following closely behind. The king and queen are the pinnacle of each group’s display, their attire a dazzling showcase of tradition and creativity. In some troupes, a child queen also takes part, embodying a spirit of inclusivity and passing the torch of culture to the next generation.

For those who stand along the sidelines, watching the procession unfold is like witnessing a living tapestry of history and heritage. The air is filled with the rhythm of drums, the sway of dancers, and the bright colors that seem to burst from every corner. It’s a mesmerizing experience, one that carries you back in time to when this celebration first began. The roots of the carnival stretch all the way back to the Afro-Brazilian community’s early days in Lagos, when they would gather on Easter Day to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ. What began as a joyful party, a way to come together and commemorate a sacred event, has now blossomed into a magnificent cultural display, a living tradition that has been passed down through generations, enduring through the centuries.

As you watch the king and queen of each troupe glide by, their costumes glittering in the sunlight, you realize that this is more than just a carnival. It is a celebration of faith, history, and identity—a reminder that in Popo Aguda, culture isn’t just remembered, it’s lived, and it’s something to be celebrated with every beat of the drum and every step of the dance.